Dirt, dirty teeth

Today we had a busy lesson creating dirt on the skin and dirty teeth using lots of different products.

Health & safety:
- Make sure the clients clothes are covered as the products used can get very messy.
- If the client has previously had teeth whitening or tooth caps then do not use the enamel on their teeth as it could potentially effect the colour. (dirty teeth)
- Dont get any of the 'dirt effect' skin sprays in the mouth and make sure that the clients eyes are closed whenever you spray the product. (dirty skin)
- Make sure the room is well ventilated as we are using spray products and we don't want the fumes to linger. (dirty skin)

Products used:
- Kryolan teeth enamel - black and nicotine
- Fullers earth
- Water
- Cotton buds
- Spatula
- Hair dryer
- Supra palette
- Bowls
- Kryolan body sprays - grey, brown & black
- Blood watered down ( if you want to add blood)


Dirty skin

1. Place some fullers earth into a mixing bowl and add water to make the consistency into a paste and then apply the product to the area you want the dirt to be.
2. To dry, use a hairdryer on a cool setting and wait until the product turns white (thats when you know it's dry)
3. The drying process should crack the fullers earth to create the look of dry,cracked skin. If it isn't cracked enough then you can squeeze the skin together and the product should crack.
4. Using the kryolan sprays you can take whatever colour you would like and lightly spray from a distance to add different colours to the area.
5. Using supra colours you can place them underneath the nails and around the cracks on the skin to create dirty nails.

Dirty teeth

There are different types of tooth enamel that you can buy to create different types of dirty teeth. I used black and then nicotine over the top, and i liked the look it created.

1. Check with the client that they don't have their teeth whitened / tooth caps before applying the tooth enamel.
2. Dry the teeth you want to make dirty using a cotton bud.
3. Make sure the client doesn't close their mouth through the whole process or let their lips touch their teeth.
4. Shake the bottle well before using it and apply some product onto a mixing palette / surface.
5. Using a clean cotton bud apply the product to the teeth.
6. Once you are happy with how the teeth look, let the enamel dry on the teeth and then the client can close their mouth and it shouldn't smudge.
7. To take off the enamel use a cotton bud and surgical spirit

Self reflection:

I really enjoyed using these different products to create different effects on the skin and teeth. When it came to using the fullers earth i found it very easy to use but it was very messy and i didn't really like the outcome of using that product at all. It didn't look like dirt to me, it looked like a zombie or some kind of rotting creature.
The colour of the sprays were really effective and i liked the colours that they produced on the skin however, i found them very difficult to work with as the spray itself sprayed out a lot of product at once and it was hard to be light handed with it. Once it hit the skin it dried incredibly fast meaning that i couldn't really fix the issue or work with the product.
As for the tooth enamel, apart from the smell (which was gross) it was a great product and so so effective. In a way it was easy to use, just have to do research and make sure you know what kind of dirt you want on the teeth and what effect you are going for.

High Definition Broadcasting

What is High Definition Broadcasting and how does it affect make up and hair artists?

High Definition Broadcasting is essentially the upgrade from standard television broadcasting, it broadcasts television in High definition which means higher pixels, therefore getting an overall better quality of television. The image is a lot clearer and you can see particular shots in a lot more detail. The first high definition broadcast in the Uk began in 2006 (BBC). The majority of television channels are broadcasted in standard definition but the major broadcasters have now started to broadcast in high definition, e.g. BBC, ITV, Channel 4, Channel 5 etc.  This also effects films as well, most films are shot in high definition and shown in high definition, this means that the image is a lot clearer therefore you have to make everything look as realistic as possible, because the camera will pick up every little detail.

High definition is so much sharper and clearer than standard definition that every detail is picked up on camera. You can see pores, wrinkles, blemishes so much clearer than you used to which makes it a lot more difficult for makeup artists when it comes to applying make up to actors. Too much makeup and you can tell you have been caked in makeup and it looks horrible and too little and you look flat faced. HD makeup is very popular now and brands such as Make Up Forever have their own HD line specifically for pictures,film etc that are shot in HD. For example their HD powder has been designed so that it doesn't give the actor the ashy, pale flash back that a regular face powder can give. HD make up tends to have high coverage because this way it makes the skin look flawless in photos and on camera. 

Also when using SFX and prosthetics in tv or film, it is very important now that the artists take the time to make it look as realistic as possible as it will be very easy for the viewer to tell if it hasn't been applied properly and to see whether it looks like the actors real skin or not.

As for the hair stylists, again because the image is so clear, the viewer can see every detail meaning that they will be able to see wonky partings/sections, stray hairs, baby hairs, pins within the hair, hair extensions, extra hair pieces & also wigs can look a lot less real if shot up close. This means that hair stylists have to make sure that the hair looks as realistic as possible if using extensions, or wigs. They also have to hide their pins well when doing updo's and make sure the hair is as slick and precise as they can get it, because any fly aways and stray hairs will pick up on the camera. The colouring of the hair is very important as well if the stylist is using extensions or extra hair pieces to create a hair style, it's important that the extension or hair piece is the exact same colour as the models real hair.

Late victorian hair research

Victorian hairstyles changed a lot toward the end of the era. Women's hair changed to looser curls, hair was longer (shoulder length), curls are at the back of the head and not the front, fringes were brought into fashion, short curly fringes became popular etc.

Hairstyles tended to reflect the fashion, aspirations and social changes in society at that time. The hairstyles reflected the dresses that women wore at the time. As the skirts of the dresses were drawn back towards the late 1860's so was the hair with pulling it back to reveal the ears. The flat top and the curls spiralling down the back of the neck mimicked the details on the back and train of the gowns.

The industrial revolution saw a massive rise in the middle class which brought a lot more new fashions and hairstyles to the era. By the 1850's department stores became popular meaning that women bought a lot of hair pieces and adornments to go in their hair. This depended on their wealthiness as to what kind of piece they bought.

When the civil war was going on during 1861-1865 this brought a new hairstyle for women. It was more to do with practicality during the war rather than elaborate hairstyles with adornments. The hair was scarped back off of the face and put tightly into a bun so that no hair was down in the face and bothering her. It was a lot more practical to have no hair hanging down around the face to worry about.

Towards the end of the 19th century curling irons were introduced which changed hairstyles again to become a lot more heavily influenced by soft waves. However only those who could afford curling irons would use them. They were introduced by Marcel Grateau and was known as the 'Marcell wave', it was a lot more natural wave to the hair rather than the curls we saw in the 1860's.

It was shown as a sign of respect to cover the hair completely and wear it up when there was a death in the family. Queen Victoria wore her hair up and covered (bar a few exceptions) after her husband Albert passed away. To show that she was mourning she covered her hair always and wore it up. It was popular to keep the hair of a loved one that had passed away in a locket as a sign of love. 

Mens hairstyles:

As you can see from the images above hairstyles became a lot shorted towards the end of the victorian era, and it became more popular to have a lot of facial hair. Beards, moustaches, mutton chops and side burns were all really popular. Men used to tame their facial hair using oils and waxes to help shape the hair. They would also wear wood frames at night to keep their moustaches shaped.

It was popular for men fighting in the American civil war to grow facial hair because the temperature was so cold that by growing facial hair they could keep their face warmer. It wasn't until towards the end of the victorian era that it became popular for men to have a clean shave.


References:
1. Chertsey museum (no date) Available at: http://chertseymuseum.org/hair (Accessed: 13 February 2016).
2. Victorian women’s fashion, 1850-1900: Hairstyles (2001) Available at: http://www.victorianweb.org/art/costume/nunn10.html (Accessed: 13 February 2016).
3. Bryer, R. (2000) The history of hair: Fashion and fantasy down the ages. London: Distributed in the USA and Canada by Antique Collectors’ Club.
4. Victorian men’s fashions, 1850-1900: Hair (2001) Available at: http://www.victorianweb.org/art/costume/nunn21.html (Accessed: 13 February 2016).

Is there such thing as Broken Heart Syndrome?

From reading Wuthering Heights and focusing on the character Heathcliff, i decided to look into whether dying of a broken heart really is a real thing. When Cathy dies, Heathcliff just seems to go downhill from there and become more and more weak.

Women are more likely than men to get the sudden, intense chest pain. The chest pain is a reaction to a surge of stress hormones that can be caused by an emotionally traumatic event.

Broken Heart Syndrome may be misdiagnosed as a heart attack because the symptoms and test results are similar. However, unlike a heart attack, there is no evidence of blocked heart arteries in Broken Heart Syndrome.

Broken heart syndrome can lead to severe, short term heart muscle failure.

Symptoms:
- Chest pain
- Shortness of breath

Causes:
- Unexpected death of a loved one
- Frightening medical diagnosis
- Domestic abuse
- Losing a lot of money
- Physical stress factors (car accident, major surgery)



References:
1.

Is broken heart syndrome real? (2015) Available at: http://www.heart.org/HEARTORG/Conditions/More/Cardiomyopathy/Is-Broken-Heart-Syndrome-Real_UCM_448547_Article.jsp#.Vw_qi2NeBZ0 (Accessed: 14 April 2016).
2. 

Staff, M.C. (2014) ‘Broken heart syndrome symptoms’, Mayoclinic, .

Early victorian hair research

In the early 1830's which was considered as 'early victorian era' hair styles were extremely different to what was considered 'ok' in society towards the end of the victorian era. As in most era's hairstyles change depending on the decade, because of events going on in the world, fashion of the time, what is considered to look appealing to others and role models of the time.

All victorian girls and women had extremely long hair as they never cut it and just let it grow as long as they could. The longer the hair the better because the longer the plaits could be meaning they could do more with their hair. Long, flowing hair was only acceptable in girlhood, long hair was not considered acceptable to wear when you were older. Long hair was sexualised and considered to 'set the male heart fluttering' and was considered sexy to watch a lady let their hair down or put their hair up.

Early victorian hair consisted of a lot of plaits, buns and ringlets. Pre civil war it was popular to have ringlets at the front of the head to frame the face with a bun at the back of the head and also to have the plaits at the front of the head, looping underneath the ear and pinning to the bun. This was a popular hairstyle to women as they wore a lot of bonnets and this was the hairstyle that fitted underneath the bonnet but you could also see either the ringlets, sausage curls or plaits at the front out of the bonnet. The neater the hair and the different kind of hair pieces added depended on your wealth and social class.

Victorian men:

There isn't much to comment on about men's hairstyles in the early victorian era. The more elaborate and interesting men's hairstyles came in the late victorian era.

In the 1830's it was popular for men to wear a top hat, so their hairstyle replicated the fashion at the time. It was still popular to have large waves/curls in the hair similar to hairstyles in the 18th century. Men had a lot of curls and volume on top of their head with very slick sides with some facial hair so that their top hat could sit on their head and not affect their hairstyle so when they removed it their hair was still in place.
Side partings were in fashion whether you were having a voluminous hairstyle for under a top hat or just slicking down the hair. Generally mens hair was fairly short which made a change from the 18th century hairstyles.

References:
1. Thomas, P. (2006) Early Victorian Hairstyles and hats 1840-70. Available at: http://www.fashion-era.com/hair_hats_184070.htm (Accessed: 13 February 2016).
2. Harris, K. (2015) Victorian Hairstyles: A short history, in photos. Available at: http://www.whizzpast.com/victorian-hairstyles-a-short-history-in-photos/ (Accessed: 13 February 2016).
3. Chertsey museum (no date) Available at: http://chertseymuseum.org/hair (Accessed: 13 February 2016).
4. Bryer, R. (2000) The history of hair: Fashion and fantasy down the ages. London: Distributed in the USA and Canada by Antique Collectors’ Club.
5. 1837-1865 Hairstyles, ladies (early Victorian/civil war) (2012) Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/furrypetals/1837-1865-hairstyles-ladies-early-victoriancivil-w/ (Accessed: 13 February 2016).

Late Victorian hair TECHNICAL

Helen started off the lesson by showing us images of late victorian  hairstyles and looking out how they differ a lot from early victorian hairstyles. This was adapted to fit the popular fashion at the time, what was going on in the world (wars etc) and more. This can all be explained in my Late victorian research post.

Compared to early victorian hair the styles have dropped, there are a lot of curls and the hair has been pushed to the back instead of focusing on plaits at the front and side of the head. These hairstyles were popular with women who wore extravagant headwear as the hairstyle had to fit the shape of the hat.

For this hairstyle we used heated rollers to create the shaping and volume of the hair at the front of the head that was brought back into the curled style to shape the face and make it flattering. For the rest of the hair we used hair tongs to create the curls which we then pinned.

Sectioning was extremely important for this hairstyle as if you got it wrong the whole hairstyle wouldn't work. We started off by sectioning the front 2 sections vertically behind the ear and then in a middle parting. Then with each of those separate sections we took 2 horizontal sections starting from the top and then 2 vertical sections of hair underneath that. These sections were for the heated rollers.

After that we created 2 pony tails one underneath the other at the back of the hair, leaving some remaining hair underneath. We then separated the hair within the ponytail into sections and curled using the tongs. Once curled we pinned the curls leaving some remaining curled hair out of the pin. With the remaining hair at the bottom we lifted it to attach to the pinned curls on the back of the head and this gave the hairstyle it's waterfall look.

We then removed the rollers at the front of the head and with the bottom 2 sections we combed them together and brought them to the back of the head and pinned in with the rest of the other curls. With the top 2 sections we combed them together also and brought it back to where we pinned the bottom section but just slightly above. If you did the rollers correctly you would have got volume at the centre parting creating a very soft wave in the hair. This was very flattering to the face.

Reflection:
Surprisingly i found this hairstyle quite easy to complete. I really enjoyed creating it as i have never used heated rollers before and the end result looked so pretty. The hardest part was applying the rollers. You had to make sure that the hair was all straight and even so that the rollers could go in and sit tightly. If one side was loose it wouldn't create the right curl. It took some getting used to using them, as they are quite hot and where i was applying them carefully and slowly they started to burn my fingers hahah. I was happy with how the end hairstyle turned out, i think it went well for my first attempt at using heated rollers and pinning curls.

Early Victorian hair TECHNICAL

In class we created this early victorian hairstyle. The images that we focused on trying to replicate were the images shown above. Queen Victoria used to wear her hair with a plaited bun at the back of the head and 2 plaits looping underneath her ears ( so they were exposed) and attached to the bun. These hairstyles were popular so that women could wear bonnets, so they made sure the hair was as flat to the head as it could be, but you still had the detail of the plaits around the ears.

I had to make sure i sectioned the hair correctly so that it would create the loops underneath the ears. I found it quite difficult to do on Leah's hair as she has very short hair so the plaits couldn't fully loop underneath the ears and into the bun so they loop halfway down the ear.

The hair was very smooth and all brought off the neck because it was important in early victorian times to show the décolletage. This was an easy hairstyle for girls who were of a lower social class than queen Victoria. A lot of girls looked up to her as a style icon therefore this was an easier hairstyle for them to recreate at home.

Reflection:
If i did this hairstyle again i would make sure i added hair pieces to make Leah's hair a lot longer, so i could then get the plaits to loop underneath the ear and wrap around the bun to make that bigger as well. I would also want to take more time to make sure the pins were hidden in the bun. Overall i found this hairstyle quite easy to recreate, the only difficulty i had was making it look realistic to portraits and photos etc from the time as Leah's hair wasn't long enough.